Recent Cool Tools columns
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Explosive laughter and sarcastic suggestions
erupted across a formerly focused studio. It
was very late, and we were punch-drunk and
blind from all the bead setting we'd been practicing.
Somebody suggested inventing supermarket
tabloid headlines to describe ways people
worked. Maybe you had to be there, but most of
the suggestions underscored everyone's insecurities
over whether we're doing it “right” or not.
The headline that made us all go into fits of giggles
was “Air filing: The hot new metalsmithing
craze that's sweeping the nation!”
Filing without proper support to the piece and
the file - in midair - apparently is a big, giant,
neon no-no. Who knew? Now most (most) of the
time I do file properly. You know - squared
shoulders, feet flat on the floor, piece firmly held
on the bench pin, biggest file possible, one long
stroke away, pick up file, repeat, proceed to finer
file in new direction, and so on. But sometimes the
file or the piece just can't be positioned in a way
that anyone other than a Cirque du Soleil contortionist
could manage to work with. So I do what
any other red-blooded metalsmith would do: I
air-file - but only on curved surfaces, honest! I'd
like to think I get points for knowing I am consciously
doing a “bad” thing, and I stop air-filing
as soon as I can. If you're an air-filing repeat offender,
you might just be able to break the cycle
after this review of proper filing technique and
some tips from a few filing superstars.
Marcia
Lewis
Author of Chasing: Ancient Metalworking
Technique with Modern Applications, Marcia Lewis has
been chasing metal for over 35 years. She worked in Europe over
several years as a goldsmith's apprentice and an assistant silversmith
and on fellowship before beginning a 25-year career teaching
post at Long Beach City College. Her training in Europe included
many, many, hours of precise filing. Here are her tips:
When filing on any material, don't apply pressure in the backward
stroke of the file. Why? Because the teeth on a file all point in
one direction and only cut in the forward stroke. By applying pressure
in the backward stroke you are (a) working too hard, (b) not
able to see what your previous stroke did to the metal. In fact, lift
the file completely off the surface of the object on the backward
stroke for better visibility. And remember: fast filing isn't necessarily
accurate filing. Start slow and get faster as you become more
accurate.
 Keep your files clear of debris by frequently using a filecard
(a wooden brush with short, curved, steel bristles available in any
hardware store) - especially when working on soft materials such
as copper, aluminum, plastics, or wood. A dull or clogged file will
slow you down. Using more pressure doesn't make a dull or clogged
file work any better.
Lexi Erickson
Lexi teaches jewelry at high school
and college levels. She is President of the Pennsylvania Society of
Goldsmiths and teaches jewelry fabrication and design at the Baum
School of Art in Allentown, Pennsylvania.
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Many teachers will ignore the #0 file - but it is the best for rapid
metal removal. Use it right after you cut out a piece with your saw. The 0 file
will quickly smooth out burrs left on your metal and fix wobbly lines. Many a “whoops” has
been corrected
quickly by a 0 file.
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I recommend a set of #1 files called Habilis files for beginners,
which includes a half round, flat, round, triangular, and square file. You may
find you only need the triangular or square file a few times a year, but when
you need them, nothing else will do. Tevel Herbstman at Allcraft in New York
stocks them.
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If you can only afford one good file, the #2 Grobet half round is
the best investment for a general purpose file.
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For the ultimate feel for your piece, try a #6 finishing file. It is
smooth to the touch and imparts a lustrous finish on edges. Since I burnish the
edges of my finished pieces, the #6 is my final step before burnishing.
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Don't forget that files come in many sizes - a 4-inch #6 barrette
is great for finishing those tiny inside edges that a flex shaft or buffer can't
reach.
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Craftsman makes a great set of needle files, and if you break one, the company
will replace it: they come with a lifetime guarantee. For larger
files, be sure to use files made for metal. A bastard file meant for wood will
really mess up your piece.
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For tiny areas, riffler files are good for smoothing or enlarging a
cut out. And never forget: your sawblade is actually an extremely thin file.
Use it to clean up tiny cuts, inside cuts, and difficult to reach areas. For
this purpose, #6 blades work well.
AND ANOTHER THING
Here are two ways to
approach different filing scenarios:
Flat edges
The file must be guided perfectly
straight. Clamping the metal in a vise
and guiding a large flat file with both
hands will help to prevent curving
strokes and rounded corners.
Curved surfaces
Both the file and the work must move
in an arc. The file moves away from
the body and the piece moves toward
the body. If the piece is small, hold it in
a hand vise, ring clamp, or pin vise. To
steady the work, brace the hand holding
the work against the bench pin.
Maintaining a perfect circle is one
of the most difficult filing challenges.
The push stroke must be controlled to
avoid creating a flat area - do not
keep the file in one place. And never -
never- file perpendicular to the piece
or across the edge.
Cool Tools is a regular feature of Jewelry Artist. If you have a tool you would
like featured, a useful tool modification, or interesting bench trick to suggest,
or, if you'd like to join our studio of experts, contact Helen Driggs, Managing
Editor, Jewelry Artist, 300 Chesterfield Parkway, Suite 100, Malvern, PA 19355,
or hdriggs@interweave.com, subject line "Cool Tools." Please include your complete
contact information with all submissions.
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