Pearl, Agate and Silver Set
Wire necklace, bracelet and earrings
by Kate McKinnon

This is a wonderful and simple technique that you can use to create fabulous, one-of-a-kind jewelry in little time. You can use any drilled elements, in any combination, and wire them to any type of chain that you wish. This gives you almost unlimited design possibilities, and, depending on your choice of clasp, your piece will be adjustable to fit any wrist or neck.

In this project I will show you how to make the necklace and how to apply the same techniques to create the bracelet and earrings to complete the set. I chose to use pearls paired with gemstone leaves for the necklace and used the same pearls to create the matching bracelet and earrings.

Cut a length of chain about 3/4" shorter than your desired finished length. Standard necklace sizes range from 16" to 30".
If you are wiring on a standard clasp you need to be certain of your finished length. If you choose to use a hook or a lobster clasp at one end instead, and your links are large enough to accommodate it, then your finished piece will be adjustable and the cut length of the chain is not as important.

* * * *

Assemble your beads and insert a headpin into each one. (You may wish to put more than one element onto each headpin.) I used 4 mm Swarovski crystals on top of my gemstone leaves, but left the pearls to stand alone. For the pearls I used 21-gauge sterling headpins, for the leaves I used 18-gauge headpins, finished with a ball end. Thicker wire will of course result in a stronger piece, both in appearance and durability.

Use your round nose pliers to turn a basic loop in each headpin, leaving a tail, but do not close the loop yet. When creating the loop try to place the wire onto the pliers at the same place each time so you will have consistently sized loops.

* * * *

Arrange your wired beads into a pleasing pattern. Starting at one end, begin to place the elements onto the chain by slipping each wired loop onto a single link of the chain. Grasp the wire loop with your round nose pliers and the tail of the wire with your flat or chain nose pliers, and gently bend the wire into a coil around the shank of the wire that goes through your bead. I recommend this method for any wire finer then 19-gauge.

For heavier wire I recommend cutting the wire right at the turned loop. Open the loop to put it on the chain link and reclose the loop gently with your chain nose or crimping pliers. Snip the excess wire as close as possible with your flush cutters.

Continue attaching elements along the length of the chain. You may choose to add a bead to each link, or skip one or more links; I skipped a link after every two elements.

* * * *

To attach the clasp of your choice, you can use the same loop and coil technique used in Step 3. Cut a 3" piece of wire and make a nice open loop at one end. Slip the loop over the last link on your chain and turn a few twists of coil. Snip the excess wire.

Place your round nose pliers right up against the coil. Bend a right angle, turn another open loop and slip on your lobster clasp or one half of your decorative, two-part clasp. Turn the wire into another nice little coil, right up to the first one and snip the excess wire. Round off the cut ends with your crimping or chain nose pliers. You should now have two loops, one attached to the chain portion, the other attached to the clasp. If you chose a lobster clasp you are finished. If you chose a decorative two-part clasp, repeat the wiring for the other half of the clasp on the opposite side of the piece.

* * * *

Take your chain nose or crimping pliers and go back through your piece, gently rounding any cut wire ends. This is an important step for a professional finish — you don’t want any sharp points showing or catching your clothing.

* * * *

To make the bracelet repeat Steps 1-5. When stringing the pearls, instead of skipping links as I did in the necklace, hang a pearl on every link of the chain. You can use any clasp you like to complete the bracelet. I frequently use lobster clasps because it enables me to adjust the bracelets I sell at shows. By using a lobster clasp and a chain that can accommodate the clasp’s size, the bracelet can be made longer but able to be worn shorter, if necessary.

* * * *

To make the matching pair of earrings, cut two to four links of chain, wire your beads to those links, and attach the top link of chain to an ear wire. I find that three links of chain, with one bead in each link, works very nicely.

I never tire of using this technique and I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

* * * * * * * * * *

 

Kate McKinnon is a self-taught artist who combines her love of nature, pattern, shape, and color with her attraction to sparkle and movement. She lives and operates her business in St. Louis, Missouri, and travels all over to teach and exhibit her work. She can be contacted at www.modernnymph.com.

Try your skills with more metalworking projects here!

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